Wexford Hillwalking and Mountaineering Club

Climbing Handbook

Safety First

Climbing is a dangerous activity and this needs to be accepted and mitigated.At the club sessions, the motto should be Safety First then Teamwork, we want to stay safe and help run the sessions for everyone’s enjoyment. If you are unsure of how to do something it is important to ask for assistance or find someone to check your work.

How do the climbing sessions work?

The sessions are organised via whatsapp to enable change of plans due to weather.
Let us know you are coming so we know how many ropes to carry in.
It is important AND YOUR RESPONSIBILITY to update your emergency contact details in the WhatsApp groups description.
Climbing sessions are run by volunteers, generally we meet around 5pm at St Marys GAA carpark and then walk into the crag.
Someone will set a rope or 2 up for people to top rope (these are suitable for beginners), while other people will pair up to do lead climbing. People arrive as suits and we climb until we are tired or it gets dark.
There is no formal training at these sessions but there are lots of people to ask for advice or check your work and learning is done that way.

I am just starting out

If you are not sure if climbing is for you, come to one of the sessions and have a go.  It is important to let us know in advance so that we can bring necessary equipment. We have helmets and harnesses for new people to borrow. For climbing it is best to wear loose comfortable clothes and runners. We climb outside so a raincoat is advised, often the walk in is muddy so boots are best for this.
If climbing is for you, we ask that you do some formal training on using the ropes/harness etc. The club organises a session in May for this or you can organise one yourself (Claire Comiskey is a local provider). You can also start getting gear (shoes, helmet, harness) more details on gear in section below.
New people may come twice before joining the club, but can’t belay/set up ropes until they are paid-up members (this is for insurance reasons).

How do I help the sessions run smoothly

Club sessions are run on a voluntary basis, respect, thanks and a bit of ‘pitching in’ will go a long way. 
Please be ready to climb when the rope is free (shoes on, jumpers off etc.)
If bringing a friend please let Helen, Colette or Paul know in advance.
Keep an awareness of what is going on around you, both in terms of safety (your own and others) and in terms of helping out (setting up, tidying up, belaying).

Climbing Gear

Climbing gear can be expensive so it is best to work your way down this list as you progress, we ask that you get your own harness and helmet after your first few sessions. Your Mountaineering Ireland membership gives you a discount on gear bought at most Irish stores. The biggest climbing-specific shop in Ireland is the Great Outdoors shop in Awesome Walls Dublin. Be wary of buying online from outside Europe as the gear may not be properly tested, bergfreunde.eu, sportpursuit.com and alpinesports.ie all have good prices and can be trusted. As the gear is used for safety second-hand gear is to be avoided (with the exception of shoes).

If you want advice on what works best feel free to ask for advice.

Kit list

Basics for taking part in club sessions and day trips:

  • Climbing shoes that fit snuggly allowing you to stand on small edges
  • harness with gear loops
  • well-fitting helmet
  • belay plate and HMS carabiner
  • chalk bag
  • second screw-gate karabiner
  • nut tool for seconding
  • snap-gate karabiner
  • 120cm sling
  • Prusik

To set up your own top rope climbs outside of sessions:

  • 2 long slings
  • 4 screw gates
  • A dynamic single-rope
  • A set of wires

After this, you are looking at getting a full rack and things become more down to personal preference and what kind of climbing you are doing.

All climbing gear has a lifespan, anything with fabric should be retired after 8 years no matter how little wear is showing. All gear should be checked regularly for damage. (link to article)

Climbing Progression

Each person will progress through each stage at their own pace, but no matter where you are at you should be working towards the next level of independence. This is important for the health of the club so there is always someone to set up ropes and so work can be shared. 
This list is roughly in order but it is a good exercise to go through and see what you are missing. 

  • I have done a few climbs and can trust the rope and being lowered
  • I can put on my helmet and harness without help
  • I can tie into the rope on my own
  • I can coil a rope neatly for carrying and storage
  • I can check someone else’s harness and knot
  • I can belay and lower standing on the ground
  • I don’t need someone to tail the rope when I belay
  • I can belay and lower safely while (attached to anchor) sitting at the top of the crag
  • I have abseiled with a prusik
  • I can abseil without someone needing to check my set up
  • I can check and care for my basic gear
  • I can second confidently taking out the gear without damaging it
  • I have an understanding of my climbing ability when it comes to grades and know which climbs should be easy / hard for me
  • I can set up a top rope anchor
  • I can teach someone else to belay
  • I can belay someone who is lead climbing
  • I can check someone else’s abseil set up
  • I can rethread a sport anchor
  • I can place wires and cams
  • I have practiced the skills for leading
  • I am happy lead climbing and understand the risks and how to manage them
  • I can check and care for all gear
  • I am working on my Rock Climbing Instructor Award

Information and Resources

Rock Climbing by Libby Peter, if you get one book get this one it has lots of diagrams and explains how to set up most rope systems. (Available in Wexford Library)

The Climbing Bible by Martin Mobraten (Also in the Library)

Crag guidebook http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Rocklands

Bouldering guidebook https://27crags.com/crags/rocklands-bouldering

JB mountain skills modern videos on lots of different things to do with trad climbing https://www.youtube.com/c/JBMountainSkills

Brian Bateson’s blog various articles on lots of things but some good snippets on climbing skills https://climbit.ie/2020/03/27/skills-refresher-3-basic-knots/ 

9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes by Dave Macleod a slightly dated book on how to progress as a climber

Article on strengthening to improve climbing https://threerockbooks.com/10-off-wall-exercises-improve-climbing/